Tafraout climbing

moving around in tafraout

2007-08-19T03:07:00.000-07:00

Tafraout [pop. 5000] is a quite and small touristical town in the Anti-Atlas full of colourful adobe houses incredibly hanging on pink granite rocks. Heart of a vast region of oasis and almond trees valleys, remains an important commercial centre of this berber land. People's hospitality and curiousness (first you think they always want to sell you something, then you'll see that most of them just want to know about you) can only be compared with their trading natural instinct. There are many shops in town to provide with food and souvenirs and a weekly market (zouk) on wednesday, the smaller daily central zouk is also good enough. You'll find 2 gas stations, post office, banks, chemist's, a small hospital, internet access and 3 hammams (local baths).

Lodging
Hotel Les Amandiers (luxuriest choice in town, with swimming pool): 314-528 DH
Hotel Salama: 115-150 DH
Hotel Saint Antoine: (beside BMCE-Bank, no further information yet)
Hotel Ryad Tafraout: (still under construction in 2006)
Hotel Reddouane: 35-50 DH
Hotel Tanger: 25 DH
Camping Les 3 Palmiers: 10 DH-adults / 6 DH kids, 12-15 DH/tent, 20 DH/caravan-RV, 8 DH/shower, 50-100 DH/bungalow
Camping Tazka: cheaper prizes than the preavious

Eating
Restaurant Les Amandiers: 100-150 DH
Rest. Salama
Rest. Chez Sabir
Rest. Étoile du Sud: 80 DH/menu
Rest. Étoile d'Agadir: 50 DH
Rest. Agadir
Rest. Marrakech: 50 DH (good food, a little bit noisy)
Rest. Reddouane: 25-35 DH
Rest. Tanger: 25-35 DH (friendly ambiance, good food and remarkable upper terrace)
Bottled water: 5-6 DH/1,5 L bottle
Bread: 1-1,2 DH /piece

Moving around
Car rental at M. Touareg: 1200 DH/day (gas not included)
Bike rental at Au Coin des Nomades, M. Berbère and M. Touareg: 60-100 DH/day

Exchange/ATM
Banque Populaire: exchange
BMCE: exchange+ATM
M. Touareg: exchange

moving around in morocco

2007-08-19T02:47:00.000-07:00

Car: Once you cross the herring-pond by ferry (calculate 300-360 € for 4 people+car) there are 1150 kms from Ceuta/Tanger to Tafraout. Except for the almost 450 kms tollway between Tanger and Settat (less than 150 DH, 84 DH from Larache if coming from Ceuta) roads in Morocco are not as good as we (europeans) would like to, so you'll better reserve an extra time to move around. Be patient and be prepared for some crazy driving, trucks and taxi drivers overtake no matter how hard it looks: moroccan roads always fit 3 vehicles, don't ask how!

Flights: Closest airports are Agadir and Marrakech. There are buses Agadir-Tafraout 4 times a day for 40 DH, expect a 4h drive...

Gas/petrol
Prizes we found in 2006 were between 7.58 DH and 7.65 DH per litre.

Guidebooks (some, there are tons more...)
Lonely Planet
The Rough Guide
Trotamundos (spanish)
Petit Fruté (french)

Money
Moroccan currency is the dirham (DH). Exchange rate was 10 DH = 1€ in 2006.

Best season
December to March, Xmas time offers fresh temperatures usually varying from 3º C at night to 20º C throughout the day. Avoid the unbearable months of summer, temperatures can reach 50º C without any difficulty.

Some more places to climb in Morocco (see map)

2007-08-19T02:13:00.000-07:00

**** Todra Gorge: 1 pitch to 300 mts - the most classic limestone sport climbing spot in Morocco. You'll find more information about the routes, lodging, climbing guides, etc.

**** Taghia Gorge: the future! up to 800mts walls of perfect limestone in the middle of nowhere. Many multi-pitch routes have been opened ground up in the last years, both trad and sport, but with long, long runouts in some of them. You'll find excellent topos at Desnivel #247 (spanish).

** Amellago: limestone sport climbing in the small villages of Imiter, Aït Slimane and Oudidi.

* Oukaïmeden: sandstone bouldering in pine forests.

* Imi-n-Tanoute: drive South of this town and you'll find sandstone rock ridges on both sides of the road waiting to be opened in a windy and desolated ambiance.

Anything to say?

2007-08-17T12:42:00.000-07:00

Do you know about other routes, crag names or routes names? Have you opened new routes? Did you find mistakes in this blog?...

If you want to collaborate and share your information, routes, photos or experiences with other people this is the place to do it!!

Leave your comment here or mail me at palan77@hotmail.com if you like.

Enjoy the climbs!!!

About the routes...

2007-08-17T12:24:00.000-07:00

There must be more than 70 routes at the present time. I have compiled all the routes I know, but I'm sure that there must be some more in this chaos of rocks and boulders. If you know about other routes, names of the routes/crags, whatever... or if you find mistakes in what I've written on this blog please leave your message in tafraoutclimbing.blogspot.com or mail me at palan77@hotmail.com, I'll be glad adding new information.

The idea of this blog was to make a meeting point where climbers from all over the world could share their information and experiences about climbing in this magical place. Let's make it grow!

The fundamental
Height: 10-100m (10-20m are the most common)
Gear: 60m rope and quickdraws, nuts and cams for cracks when specified
Bolting: bring many drills, the rock surface might be a bit loose sometimes but the core is really hard
Routes quality: *Recommended; *** Best you'll see!

Some bibliography
Escalar #12 (spanish climbing mag)
Desnivel #124 (another spanish climbing mag)
Grimper #67 (french climbing mag)

How to get to the climbing areas

2007-08-17T09:34:00.000-07:00

A... -TAFRAOUT AREA-

1_ Tocho Tafraout is located north of town and is quite visible from it, faces south-east

B... -ADAY ROAD AREA-

Yelmo Carpantónico & Cancho del Perro, El Lanchar, Gran Diedro, Tochos Zoco & Basura and Davilofante are located along the northern side of the road and are mainly south facing. Cancho Bastardo and Cancho Rizo are located south of Ighir n'Targant, facing north:

2_ Yelmo Carpantónico & Cancho del Perro
3_ El Lanchar
4_ Gran Diedro
5_ Tochos Zoco & Basura
6_ Davilofante
7_ Cancho Bastardo
8_ Cancho Rizo

C... -TAZKA ROAD AREA-

Tazka's First and Second Domes are located at the very north end of the dirt road with 10-15 min approaching walks, facing south to south-east the First Dome and south to north-east the Second Dome. Tazka's Palm Grove is located at the very south end of the dirt road with a 10 min walk approach, facing south. Tocho El Regalito and Tocho El Regalito's Slab are two rocks located on the south side of Tazka, facing south-east and south respectively, be polite and don't cross through the local kitchen gardens. Prisa Mata, Tocho de Tazka and Flor de Luna are located on top of the southern hills of Tazka, sharing all northern exposure and 10-15 minutes of exhausting hiking

D... -AGUERD OUDAD ROAD-

Ibrahim's Sector is located on the west side of the road once you pass the last houses, facing east to north-east. Imyane is located on the east side of the road, facing west to south-west. To get to the Black Wall, Transaharania, Black Wall's Valley and Lovers' Crack you must turn right at the characteristic '4 Palms' located 1,9 kms south of Tafraout's biggest gas station and follow the dirt road for 100-200 meters. Hike up west to reach a hidden valley and you'll find the first three areas, the Black Wall is visible from the road and is mainly north facing (10 min), Transaharania faces west (10 min) and Black Wall's Valley south-east (20 min). Lovers' Crack approach is evident and short, facing south to south-east. Elephant Rock is on the east side of the road, needs 10-15 min of hiking depending of the face and has routes on most of its faces. Heyt Mharres is on the east side of Aguerd Oudad, facing south:

17_ Ibrahim Sector
18_ Imyane
19_ Black Wall's Valley
20_ Black Wall
21_ Transaharania
22_ Lovers' Crack
23_ Elephant Rock
24_ Heyt Mharres

E... -PAINTED ROCKS AREA-

3 ways of reaching the Painted Rocks:

a) turning left at the 'Painted Rocks Jct' located 5.2 kms west of Camping Les Trois Palmiers on Aday Road, once you pass Afela Ouaday and then following the dirt road;

b) turning right 7.0 kms south of Tafraout's biggest gas station on Aguerd Oudad road and following then the dirt road;

c) turn right 2.3 kms south of Tafraout's biggest gas station and get into Aguerd Oudad, follow the main street til the end where you are forced to turn right, turn left again and pass between two rocks, the street then turns left, after 50m turn right, pass the cattle fence (lock again if you find it closed) and follow the dirt road until you reach the Painted Rocks, this is the shortest of all without any doubt and the most recommendable.

Tammayurt Arete is located on the east side of the dirt road if coming from Aguerd Oudad, needs a 5 min hike up and faces south. Amalu Wall is the biggest rock located at the very north-eastern end of the plain that spreads north of the main painted rocks, needs a 5 min walk and faces... NORTH!. The Blue and Black Painted Rocks are obvious:

25_ Tammayurt Arete
26_ Amalu Wall
27_ Painted Rocks

1_Tocho Tafraout

2007-08-16T11:58:00.000-07:00

_1 Crepy 7b
Loose crimps on an slightly overhanged wall. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws

2_Yelmo Carpantónico & Cancho del Perro

2007-08-16T11:57:00.002-07:00

Avoid the hot hours of the day on these slabs, the longest routes in Tafraout, up to 100m

_1 Condemor 5+
Goes left searching the diagonal crack. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams
_2 Kie-13 6c+ *
Elegant moves on solid rock, joins preavious route at the end of the crack. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Quickdraws
_3 Salan pradery 7a *
Quality and sustained slab that runs parallel to Kie-13. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Alicia Salán Pradera, 1999] Quickdraws
_4 Detrás del chador 6b+ *
The first pitch is the crux, starts right of a palm tree and sails through the evidence of two cracks. The second pitch eases as the inclination of the slab decreases. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams & quickdraws
_5 La pestañí me enniqueló 6c+ *
Strenous slab on little crimps, a bit sandy but still good. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Alicia Salán Pradera, 1999] Quickdraws
_6 Fender Stratocaster 6b+
Same characteristics as #5 but avoiding the difficulties. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Alicia Salán Pradera, 1999] Quickdraws
_7 Kanif chânez 5+
Longest route of the dome, links cracks and slabs with some runouts. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams & quickdraws
_8 La crosta 5+
Easy navigation with distant bolts. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Alicia Salán Pradera, 1999] Cams & quickdraws
_9 Crepy show 6c
Located on Cancho del Perro, the southern apron between 'Detrás del chador' and 'La pestañí me enniqueló', no topo available. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Alicia Salán Pradera, 1999] Cams

3_El Lanchar

2007-08-16T11:57:00.001-07:00

_1 Baile de ardilla 4+
Choose your way through the slab and don't fall... no bolts at all! [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996]

4_Gran Diedro

2007-08-16T11:56:00.001-07:00

_1 Gran Diedro 7b+ *
Impressive left-facing dihedral, harder than it looks. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams

5_Tochos Zoco & Basura

2007-08-16T11:55:00.003-07:00

_1 Zoco poco Moloco 6c+
Abundance of crimps on poor vertical rock. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_2 Ya no 7a+
A little overhanging with distant bolts on poor holds, then vertical rock. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_3 El vendedor de ilusiones 8a
Looks hard and so it is, the line could be nice if it wasn't for the poor rock. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_4 Waja con la grasa 7c+
The most righted route on this southern exposed wall, sandy and loose rock again. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_5 El cuñao mamón 6a
The easiest route, shaded choice for warming up. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Alicia Salán Pradera, 1999] Quickdraws
_6 La pandilla Basura 7c+
Overhanging arete with some bolts missing, others have been hammered in. The granite here is so crumbly that you can't say if holds are chipped or just brushed! [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws

6_Davilofante

2007-08-16T11:55:00.001-07:00

_1 Davilofante 6c
Beatiful hands crack that splits a red and orange varnished slab. The difficulty is concentrated in the first meters. [Palan Martín & David Periñán, 2002] Cams

7_Cancho Bastardo

2007-08-16T11:54:00.001-07:00

_1 Fisuras a la menta 6a
Starts on the right and then traverses left to the middle crack, no anchors. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams
_2 Los esclavos del borde 6b
Evident crack that splits the right slab. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams

8_Cancho Rizo

2007-08-16T11:52:00.000-07:00

_1 Bismillah 6b+
Short and vertical crack, no anchors on top. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams

9_Tazka' First Dome

2007-08-16T11:51:00.002-07:00

One or two pitches routes can still be opened on this virgin dome located at the far right end of Tazka's Valley...

10_Tazka's Second Dome

2007-08-16T11:51:00.001-07:00

No routes yet on this sunny slab...

11_Tazka's Palm Grove

2007-08-16T11:50:00.000-07:00

_1 Unnamed 6b
Short route on the left side of the wall, starts with vertical moves and soon becomes an easier slab. [?] Quickdraws
_2 Unnamed 6b+
Can be done in one or two pitches, crimpy start that eases once you are in the upper slab. [?] Quickdraws

12_Prisa Mata

2007-08-16T11:49:00.000-07:00

_1 Prisa mata 7b+ *
Incredible splitter on a hanging northwest facing rock. Hands and fist crack on an overhanging wall, be ready for a tough fight. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams, repeat hand and fist sizes

13_Tocho de Tazka

2007-08-16T11:48:00.002-07:00

_1 Fisura 6a
Unattractive crack on the left side of the east face. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams
_2 El balcón de Tazka 7b+ ***
Even though the real 'Tazka's balcony' is a flat rock located 200 meters east, the route is really worth the hike. The first moves are a bit sandy but once you are on the upper wall climbing gets terrific. One of the best! [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Quickdraws
_3 El tocho 8a+/b ***
Overhanging hard moves that will pump your forearms very quickly, the rock is not always the best but the route is tremendous and, best of all, north faced. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws

14_Tocho el Regalito

2007-08-16T11:48:00.001-07:00

_1 La prisa mata 7b
Sandy start, reachy move on the crux and good crimps and holds to reach the anchors. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_2 El regalito 7c/+ *
Long move on loose crimps (crux) and beautiful liebacking on a good crack, shame is so dirty. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws
_3 La tranquilidad me machaca 8b *
Two chipped holds to start and then powerful moves on a stethic line, a bit dirty too. [Daniel Andrada, Pedro Pons, Ruth Planells & Nuria Martí, 1999] Quickdraws

15_Tocho el Regalito's Slab

2007-08-16T11:47:00.000-07:00

_1 Unnamed 7b+
Facing Tocho el Regalito, a highball for a few, a top rope for most... Tough moves to get on to the slab (crux), easier the upper you get but watch out if going ropeless, you'll feel better if you have some pads down. [?]

16_Flor de luna

2007-08-16T11:45:00.000-07:00

_1 Flor de luna 7a+ ***
The most perfect crack in Tafraout! Big fists and pumpy liebacking on an astonishing rigth-facing dihedral visible from the car. Not to be missed! [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Camalots 3, 4 (4) and 4.5

17_Ibrahim Sector

2007-08-16T11:38:00.002-07:00

Left side (east)

_1 Di tu di tu 7b ***
Liebacking and powerful finish on solid crimps. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams & quickdraws
_2 Guajamente 6b+ *
Interesting crack with a terrorific tufa half the way up, be delicate! [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams
_3 Kilin 6b+
Wide and tetric crack on the right side of the crag, best choice for warming up. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams

Right side (north-east)

_4 Por Alí 7a+ *
Chimney start and thin hands-to-fingers crack once you move on to the north side. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Cams
_5 Por Alá 7b *
Powerful moves on spiky crimps, harder now that the start hold broke. [Francisco Blanco, Carlos Ruiz 'Snoopy' & Celso Martínez 'Finuco', 1997] Quickdraws

18_Imyane

2007-08-16T11:38:00.001-07:00

_1 El Hachame 6a *
Short hands and finger crack on an attractive varnished dihedral. [Palan Martín on solo, 2007] Cams

19_Black Wall's Valley

2007-08-16T11:37:00.000-07:00

_1 Unnamed 5+
Big hands-to fist splitter crack on a varnished and small wall. [?] Cams
_2 Unnamed 5+
Short hand crack located 50 meters right of the preavious route. [?] Cams
_3 Luces del desierto 6b

20_Black Wall

2007-08-16T11:34:00.000-07:00

South-east

_1 Luces del desierto 6b
Short hands-to-fingers crack on south-east face of the cliff. [Palan Martín, 2003] Cams

North to north-west

_1 Luces del desierto 6b
_2 Unnamed 5
The easiest way to get on top of the block, the belay may need some cordelettes. [?]
_3 Unnamed 5
Starts just round the corner with some easy stuff, then follows the most lefted bolted line. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_4 Unnamed 5 *
Crack start and nice moves on the upper half. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_5 Unnamed 6a ***
The most beautiful line of the wall. Good holds and crimps starting at the lowest point of the slab. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Quickdraws
_6 Unnamed 5+
Hands and fist crack, moves left (one bolt) before the bushes. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Cams, medium sizes repeated, & quickdraws
_7 Unnamed 6a+ *
Good route but not so repeated as #45. Some run outs and some dirt, but still nice enough, with a crux on the third bolt. Someone stole the anchors but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. [?] Quickdraws
_8 Unnamed 5
Links some easy cracks on perhaps too loose and dirty rock. Two anchors on top. [?] Cams
_9 Unnamed 6a
Starts on a crack between two argan trees, then follows the most lefted bolts to the anchors. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_10 Unnamed 6a *
Starts on a crack behind the right argan tree, then through a nice bolted slab. [?] Cams & quickdraws
_11 Unnamed 6b+ *
The hardest one on the wall, delicate and crimpy start, then easy to the anchors. [?] Quickdraws
_12 Unnamed 5
Short route on the north-west face, liebacking (one bolt) and hands crack, just one anchor (cordelettes). [?] Cams & quickdraws

21_Transaharania

2007-08-16T11:33:00.001-07:00

_1 Transaharania 6c *
Located on an isolated rock faced to the Black Wall with a cattle shelter underneath. Overhanging start and beautiful hands crack finishing on sprint liebacking to the anchor. [Palan Martín, 2003] Cams

22_Lovers' Crack

2007-08-16T11:32:00.000-07:00

_1 Unnamed
A piton gives evidence of this old aid route with no anchors. Maybe if there were some bolts... [?]
_2 Lovers' Crack 7c+/8a ***
Some say 8a, others 7c+... but the beauty of this pin-protected line is beyond all doubt. Powerful moves to get over the roof (crux), easier end if you move to the right crack instead of following the blind left crack. [?] Quickdraws and cams to rappel down
_3 Unnamed ?
Hands-to-wide crack for the most righted route on the crag. [?] Medium and large cams

23_Elephant Rock

2007-08-16T11:30:00.000-07:00

North

_1 Cuidao con el meao 6a+ *
Nice and shaded slab on solid rock, use a long sling to avoid rope drag when lowering. [Antoine Olabarría, Eduardo Muntané, Beatriz Martín, Manuel Caballero & Eva Viviente, 2004] Quickdraws
_2 ¿De qué vas, Nicolás? 6a *
The middle one, shares both the good and the bad things with the preavious route. [Antoine Olabarría, Eduardo Muntané, Beatriz Martín, Manuel Caballero & Eva Viviente, 2004] Quickdraws
_3 Hendrix 6a
Easy crack with some slab moves to gain the anchors. [Antoine Olabarría, Eduardo Muntané, Beatriz Martín, Manuel Caballero & Eva Viviente, 2004] Cams and quickdraws

West

No routes yet on these almost 50 meter walls, maybe because of the rock quality, loose and sandy, but still good slabs can be opened.

South

_4 Unnamed ?
Starts at the dihedral, moving right at the wide crack that crosses the roof. Just one bolt on top. [?] Large cams

East

_5 Unnamed ? *
Elegant hand-to-fist crack on a beatiful varnished wall, worth the hike. The grade must be between french 5th grade and 6b. Just one bolt on top. [?] Cams

24_Heyt Mharres

2007-08-16T11:29:00.001-07:00

_1 Rascayú 6c+
Follows the evident diagonal crack located at the middle of the crag. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan luis Monge, 1996] Cams

25_Tamayyurt Arete

2007-08-16T11:25:00.000-07:00

Tammayurt means 'full moon' in bereber. If you ever watch the moon rise along the arete you'll understand...

_1 Unnamed 6c *
Overhanging start for this attractive thin hands-to-hands crack on varnished rock. [?] Cams, no anchors
_2 Unnamed 5
Hands-to-fist crack on varnished rock. [?] Cams, no anchors
_3 Tamayyurt 6b
Wait for the sunset and climb on sandy and loose rock if you want to pay the prize of unforgettable pictures on this photogenic arete, it's really worth it! [Palan & Talo Martín & Kathi Urch, 2007] Quickdraws

26_Amalu Wall

2007-08-16T11:23:00.000-07:00

Amalu means 'shade' in bereber, what better name for this fresh wall!

_1 Living like shadows 7a ***
Avoids the arete almost 'til the lip, easiest option for warming up in this breathtaking wall. [Palan & Talo Martín & Kathi Urch, 2007] Quickdraws
_2 Ninja bereber 7b ***
Superb holes and crimps in a beautifully varnished slab with a crux near to the top, indispensable. [Talo & Palan Martín & Kathi Urch, 2007] Quickdraws
_3 Morocco Airlines 7c ***
Impressive line! Creeps through crimps, catching some air after the crux. One of the best routes of Tafraout! [Palan & Talo Martín & Kathi Urch, 2007] Quickdraws

27_Painted Rocks

2007-08-16T11:16:00.000-07:00

Blue Painted Rocks

_1 Azules de Vergara 5+
Medium-sized crack on a blue painted slab with two thorny bushes at the middle. 3 bolts along the crack and 2 more at the anchors. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams

Black Painted Rocks

_1 Negro azabache 7a+ *
A beatiful fist-to-hand crack through a black painted slightly overhanging boulder, not to be missed. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] Cams
_2 Negro azabache (Sit start) 7c *
The harder version! Starting from the very bottom of the fist crack roof. Tape yourself and be ready for the slippery painting inside the crack, can be annoying. [Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996] No additional gear